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How To Change Universal Joint On 09 Chevy Silverado

TruckTrend Brand

| How-To - Manual

How to supersede U-Joints & Residuum Your Truck's Driveshaft

Project Over/Under, 2003 Chevy Silverado: Part 10

Most people don't remember about replacing the U-joints on their truck until they hear the telltale whine. That's exactly what happened to u.s. and Projection Over/Under recently. With the truck basically complete, nosotros've mostly been enjoying it, but we've too done a piddling fine-tuning. We changed out the exhaust—our sometime kit was rubbing in a few places because we cut information technology down to fit a standard cab longbed. We also changed out a catalytic converter that was rattling and so bad we thought it was a rod knock at first! Anyway, we're non certain if the U-joints were whining all along, or if they're only easier to hear at present that we've fine-tuned the truck. Either fashion, it seemed similar a adept fourth dimension to visit our friends at Inland Empire Driveline in Corona, California, to have the job washed correctly.

Fifty-fifty with the lift and rearend work, we had never given the factory driveshaft in our Silverado project a await.

If you lot're driving a truck that's more than a few years old and thinking, Man, I've never checked the U-joints, then you tin can be one of the rare, proactive ones who takes care of your driveshaft before it starts talking to you, or worse: breaks loose and drags on the ground—merely not before violently banging on everything else nether your truck.

Instead of haphazardly pressing on some new U-joints and calling it a day, nosotros wanted to practice the task right, which includes balancing the driveshaft, something that's frequently overlooked. In one afternoon, the Inland Empire Driveline crew removed our factory Silverado driveshaft, replaced the U-joints, and had the refurbished driveshaft (which was balanced and polished) dorsum in the truck before sundown. Follow forth beneath, and check out IEDLS.com for any of your driveline repairs or custom builds.

Up front end, you can tell by the thin line of new rust where the slip yoke relocated on the output shaft afterward lifting. As you lot can meet, there'due south definitely not plenty difference to warrant lengthening the driveshaft.
The process began with the removal of the straps from the pinion shaft yoke.
And so nosotros used a pry bar to gently release the U-joints from the yoke.
Now the sideslip yoke will slide off the transmission's output shaft.
In the quest to take this story expect professional, we looked all over (with no luck) for a red plastic plug from a parts house or transmission shop to continue fluid from leaking out while the driveshaft was removed. We had to settle for a ruby-red solo cup with a rag in information technology and some masking tape, which really worked great.
Soon we were out in Corona, California, at Inland Empire Driveline with our well-worn driveshaft.
Carlos started by removing the U-joint snap rings. He immediately knew without question these U-joints were factory and had never been replaced.
IEDLS has all the correct tools for the task, and the pressing out of the old U-joints happens in just a few seconds.
It's hard to see, but we cleaned and inspected the erstwhile U-joints, which revealed wear spots from the needles being dry out and non moving freely.
IEDLS uses Spicer products pretty exclusively, and Spicer is widely known equally one of the best options out there.
As quick as the old ones were removed, the new U-joints were pressed in identify.
Upward at the front end of the shaft, Carlos presses off the slip yoke so presses out the U-joint.
So the new joint was pressed into place.
That'south where most U-joint replacements end, but we too wanted to balance the driveshaft while we were here. Carlos installed the sleeves for the balancer and so nosotros could exam information technology out.
The shaft was bolted into the balancer and we were prepare to give it a whirl.
This guess measures the shaft vibration in thousandths as the shaft spins at about 2,500 rpm. Carlos says a reading of around .010 will almost certainly be felt when driving the truck. Ours was at virtually .006.
From there, Carlos removed the factory balancing weights with a 4-inch grinder.
So the weight is chiseled off the onetime-fashioned way.
Now Carlos uses a piece of emery cloth to sand the entire shaft and reveal a nice clean surface.
A couple of different size weights were temporarily wire-tied to the shaft earlier it was given another spin.
Once nosotros accomplished the IEDLS standard of 0 to .001, the weights were welded in place.
Carlos gave the welded areas a quick cleanup with the wire brush.
At this point, nosotros gave the shaft one more pass with the emery material, followed by Scotch-Brite.
With that, we had a counterbalanced and polished shaft with new U-joints and were set up to head home and install it.
We grabbed a new prepare of bolts and straps on the way abode to prepare for installation.
A bit of grease was added to the inside and exterior of the slip yoke before sliding it back into place.
Finally, the rear was gear up into identify and bolted down with the new straps and bolts. We were back on the road and extremely happy knowing we would get many years of problem-free service from the new setup.

Source: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1907-2003-chevy-silverado-avoiding-shaft/

Posted by: kintzelsishomistend.blogspot.com

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